What makes a Yohji Yamamoto summer season? Absence of socks. An open collar exposing neck. Visible toes too, in a glimpsed sandal made, tellingly, like a blown-out leather shoe. In a show of mostly black tailoring, including wool jackets and overcoats, these are minor seasonal cues evident only to the initiated, the converted, the already… Continue reading Yohji Yamamoto Men SS23 →
Two weeks ago we received at headquarters the first of a steady trickle of deliveries from an unfamiliar source. DSW: Designer Shoe Warehouse? Familiar to us from unhappy suburban interludes, DSW sells made-for-outlet pieces produced by fading middle class brands long since sold for their logos. Sniffing misappropriation of company funds, we descended the service… Continue reading Bottega Veneta Fall ’22 →
Dries van Noten’s men’s Fall/Winter ‘23 campaign is a study of liminality. The “Video Fashion Show” which accompanies the collection presents a number of youths in a decaying high-ceilinged house with distressed, on-label wallpapers. In that conscious blend of formal and leisure wear that has characterised recent seasons, these boys (and from the look of… Continue reading Dries van Noten Men A/W 22-23 →
Frederic Tcheng’s Dior and I (2014), on Raf Simons’ first ready-to-wear collection for the fabled couture house, offers a revealing insight into the working methods of one of the industry’s most likeable designers. Quiet if not introverted, Simons must add to the perennial challenges of renewed inspiration and tight deadlines a series of additional difficulties:… Continue reading Prada Men’s FW 22 →
Today’s Fendi Men’s Fall/Winter 22-23 show put us in mind of English actor David Niven (1910-1983). A photograph from the 1970s shows Niven posing in the kind of informal clothing suitable to a summer in the Cote d’Azur: open necked striped shirt with rolled sleeves, fitted trousers with a micro flare, light cashmere sweater tastefully… Continue reading Fendi Men’s Fall/Winter 22/23 →
Alessandro Michele and Hollywood consummated their long courtship Tuesday night with Love Parade, Gucci’s latest show. Michele is the designer of the moment, a binary-buster whose runway clothes take inspiration from a benighted gendered yore in order to blend, swap, and exaggerate the familiar into dizzyingly unrecognizable and liberatory forms. Hollywood was slow to recognize… Continue reading Gucci Los Angeles! →
They appeared some days before opening. The incomplete stage, situated beneath the grand dome and visible from balconies above, was at the ground floor covered in black shroud. Like the members of a traveling theater troupe, staff in performance dress stood outside it with arms crossed, speaking earnestly. Of what? Peculiarities of acoustics? The customs… Continue reading Gucci + Lanvin: Not a Collaboration →
Among the fashion designer “heavies,” Hedi Slimane—photographer, filmmaker, music obsessive—would seem the least likely, in this era of digital-only shows, to display a clinginess to the rubric of the runway. His men’s collections are some of the least fashion-referential going, his modern business miracle the translation of a connoisseur’s recursive, selfish passions into equally indefatigable… Continue reading Celine Men’s Summer 2022 →
Astonishing to see the neighborhood cat in the backyard, where he surveills, hunts, and sleeps, all at once. Directly he enters the property, dropping silently from a bordering hedge, from our window after accepting (the pleasure, we aren’t allowed to forget, is ours) a piece of hospitality, and the resident family of birds establish their… Continue reading Natural Break →
Just as we sharpened our critical talons in consideration of the latest Dries van Noten spring collection, a funny thing happened. “Private sale starting this weekend” on the previous (and in actual human biological calendar, current) spring season’s collection. Would we stop by? In our “of course,” we yielded not just to the vanity of… Continue reading Dries van Noten Men’s Spring 2022 →
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