During a recent fashion perambulation, inspecting the latest clothes as a pretext to showing off our collection of the old, we ran into an idol. Not, to clarify, an obsession. They were not the subject of white-hot adolescent infatuation. Neither were they the object of the more lasting, and therefore more complicated adult devotion: a… Continue reading Gyungyun + Celebrity Collaboration!
Available now on our new (!) Youtube channel: a pilot episode for an innovative new unboxing series. We—well, health protocols mandate that a solitary associate intern shares—the thrill of making runway dreams a reality. Our intern reports strange sensations in the course of filming these productions. We expected to feel a diminished pleasure from the… Continue reading Commodity Fetish Hot Potato
Yesterday we sent one of our assistant content researchers to explore their local fashion ecosystem. Their official assignment was to compare the colours of Lanvin’s Bumpr sneaker there with our inventory in Asia. Afterward, with a two digit per diem—that’s 00.00, not 00,000.00—local observation for future features. Turning into the Lanvin store we were greeted… Continue reading Southern California Fieldwork
High fashion is in an abusive relationship. In this caper, the fashion industry occupies the peculiar role of the infinitely patient parent. The big money labels, on the strength of accessory sales, advertise for big money in what few extant non-specialist publications will take them. Rather ungratefully, these publications, when they do take notice of… Continue reading The Erstwhile Influencers and Fashion
A nostalgic music video introduced Lanvin’s FW 21 collection this morning. It is a cheering piece, offering an unconventional look, de rigueur no thanks to the pandemic, of the variety of ways fashion designers can play with the inspirations for their collections. Bruno Sialelli’s first menswear collections didn’t impress us. They looked a lot like… Continue reading Lanvin Fall Winter 2021 First Look
Denouncing plagiarism can be a mug’s game but…yikes! Here is Casablanca, borrowing one of Prada’s established logos. Prada: And again, from Dries van Noten’s SS19 Verner Panton collection. That makes it a double “borrowing.” Well done! Dries van Noten SS19: Don’t retailers have a duty to tell new labels, you know, hey “we work with… Continue reading Cite your source(s)!!
A reliable source informs me that Bottega Veneta’s sales were up 18% in the second half of last year, the only Kering brand that grew. That’s no small feat in a tumultuous year for the industry. Is this the expected honeymoon period for Daniel Lee, the label’s new(ish now) designer, the numbers reflecting a second… Continue reading Daniel Lee’s Bottega Veneta Menswear
I am one of those extreme pet lovers. So certain I offer, when called, unparalleled happiness to all animals—feral, domestic, and unborn—that, like all professionals, I don’t make a big deal of it. I don’t pet people’s dogs, inquire about unfamiliar breeds, or smile at them in the way it was once permitted to smile… Continue reading Trashy Flexing
Dries Van Noten’s digital Autumn/Winter 2021-2022 menswear show is, like the past twelve months, a little bit stressful. A fixed camera trained on a patch of sky at dawn. We are looking up, past wide steps, at a grand stone entrance, a frame from which models materialize, from dawn to dusk, to take a couple… Continue reading Dries Van Noten Men Fall 2021
The upheaval of the runway calendar would seem to suit Hedi Slimane. The glamour and theatre of his tightly focused runway shows, known for their near martial discipline in look and organization (no cameras, please!) only just contain the obsessive collector’s impulse: to be left alone alone with their art. “Have a look by all… Continue reading CELINE HOMME FW 2021
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